Smooth Sailing

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The seas remained calm again today.  So far we have been very lucky.  It was a bit cloudier and maybe a bit more chillier but I think it is colder at home.  Today was around 34 degrees.  Had a leisurely morning starting with coffee in the room and then up to the restaurant for breakfast.

At 11 am there was an interview with a world famous photographer, Steve McCurry.  Great stuff. Found the whole thing very interesting. Back in the cabin, I took some shots of the local birds gliding around the ship. Mostly kelp gulls, I've been told.  Kate came back and we were sorting out about what to take kayaking.  If we don't go together, she can have my waterproof camera, and when I go I can borrow her new cap with the visor -- which was highly recommended for glare.  Just as we finished, there was an announcement that a couple of humpbacks have been spotted along side the ship.  We couldn't get out of the room fast enough.  They were rather large and having great fun with the ship.  I did the best I could to get some pix.  Apparently, humpbacks are quite common.  We are now on the look-out for blues and or orcas.

As I was coming down from the deck, I introduced myself to our expedition leader, Skulk, from South Africa.  Had a nice long chat about our visit there this winter.  The guy who owns the bike shop where we bought the bike shirts, is a very good friend of his. He is from Plattenberg Bay.  He was thrilled to talk about his home town.

After all that excitement it was time for lunch.  I sat with a woman I have been talking to on and off since we boarded.  The next activity was the volcano lecture.  We will be sailing into a caldera.  Geoff called in the middle of it from the Channel 5 Christmas party.  I turned on the video and got to say to some old friends and let them see a bit of the Drake Passage.

4:30 and it was time for team trivia in the panorama lounge.  I asked the table where Ann was if they needed another body -- "no, we sorry, we're full".  So Brian, the ringmaster, sat me down with Andrew and Andrew for the UK.  Then came Genie and Donna, who were the two gals from dinner last night.  The 5 of us had smallest team but we kicked butt!!  The winners gather up points and at the end of the cruise you can trade them in for the big stuffed rabbit or some such.

5:00 is our briefing for the next day's landing.  As we were walking in, one of the women from the first trivia table I approached, said "Well, there were teams with more than 6 - you could have joined us.  She was sorry she said no now!"  Kate and I will be going on our first landing at 10 am tomorrow.  We are both very excited.

Dinner was a hoot this evening.  We were joined by the world famous photographer, Steve, and his

wife Andy, along with two of the ships kayak excursionists - Celle from Sweden who now lives in Norway and Jake who lives in the Thunder Bay area in Canada. Also joining us was David and Kim from Wisconsin.  Needless to say the conversation was very lively.  We also spotted our very first Antarctica iceberg.  Celle tells me that we are on the same line as Anchorage.  So the daylight is pretty much the same only reverse time of year. Also the time difference will only be two hours for the whole tour.  There was a lot of discussion about that and some said it might be New Zealand time which would be 13 hours.  I may get to see that football game yet!

Since we were sitting with the kayak guys, Kate found out that she will be going out tomorrow on the afternoon kayak excursion.  My lottery number is pretty low so I'm not even sure I'll get to go.  But the guys said if I'm a single I have a better chance when someone cancels.  I'll just have to wait.

It's been a pretty nice day all around.  The albums are going to be small.  It takes very long to upload.  Looking forward to our first landing.  Till then sunset in Antarctica...

Next time... Yankee Harbor/Half Moon Bay

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Crossing the Drake Passage

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Started sailing into the Drake Passage last night.  It felt like a big cradle rock.  So far this has been very smooth sailing.  We learned that the captain had stayed a few extra hours in the Beagle Passage before heading out to Drake just to let the weather pass.  We are all very grateful.  It feels like Drake Lake now. The sun is bright and the winds have been very calm.  But we all know that can change in a heartbeat.  I took an early morning tour of the ship this morning.  Very quiet - I was the only one around until I found the coffee.  Even then, there were only two other women.  It was a good time to get acquainted with the place. Although I still look at the map.  Tomorrow morning I'll get coffee via room service -- something I am not very used to doing.  I had a wonderful breakfast.  A small souffle with spinach and artichoke.  Very yummy.  It was time to get some answers as to why I couldn't get my computer connected to the wifi last night.  Apparently you can only have one device online at a time. Hence, the phone had to disconnect before I can connect the laptop.  Guess you have to read ALL the instructions - duh!

Pretty soon after breakfast was the ship introduction. A general meet and greet and explanations of what to do and where to find things.  This rolled right into the zodiac intro. All about how to get in and out and what to wear. Read for a bit and talked with some people till it was time for the kayak seminar.  Without going to this you are not eligible to kayak.  Since time and space is limited, the kayaking is done by lottery.  Hopefully if the weather holds out everyone will get a chance to go out.  Kate and I signed up separately, so we may not go out together.  This way we can exchange our information.  No matter what everyone goes out either on a land excursion or zodiac cruise twice a day.  Probably starting on Friday.  We have another whole day of sailing through the passage before arriving at Antarctica.

Before I had to go down to the bio-security check - this is where they check whatever gear you brought that has previously been used in other environments- I took a lovely stroll around the pool and observation decks.  Video called my brother on WhatsApp and gave him a small walking tour of the ship.  Then it was time for inspection.  All my stuff passed and I am now back in the room contemplating a sauna.  Yes, definitely.  Back from the sauna and steam spa -- Kate is still napping, so I wander up to the Panorama Lounge for a cocktail and some munchies.  Lots of folks up there but I really didn't join in any conversation.  It is now time for the Captain's Welcome Cocktail and then I suppose dinner.  Until then...

More meet and greet at the Captain's Welcome Cocktail.  We met a lovely young woman, Leah, from Canadian Vancouver.  Wound up having dinner with her, two other women traveling together from St. Louis, and a couple from Dallas who want to get a game of "Cards Against Humanity" going. That should be fun. They've gone up to play "Name That Tune".  This really is camp.  Can't wait till the action begins.

Sweet dreams...

Next time... Antarctica

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Boarding @ Ushuaia

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Up at 5am and scurried to be downstairs by 5:30.  I ran and got a cup of coffee while Kate dealt with check-out. We were lucky this morning. There was a Peruvian flight crew up early and the early breakfast was really for them. We just caught a break - usually breakfast does not open till 6am.  The taxi came pretty close to 6 and there was a lot of conversation about which airport and how long it would take and how much $$.  The driver broke out his Google Translator and all questions were answered.

The domestic airport is a busy place. We made our way to check-in and then went our separate ways.  I took advantage of the upgrade auction to be able to stretch out -- my knee is not a happy camper after the past couple of days.  I went in search of a VIP lounge -- not here, too small.  Walked around a bit and eventually met up with Kate at the gate.  Said good-bye to Buenos Aires as the plane took off. It was a short but very fulfilling visit. I am now enjoying my luxury seat immensely.  Just finished a small breakfast and waiting to land in about an hour and a half or so.  As mentioned previously, we'll have a couple of hours in Ushuaia before the charter comes for us.  We are both pretty psyched about finally getting on board.

Easy landing with glorious sights.  Did not expect so much
sunshine.  Thought it was going to rain today.  Grabbed a taxi and had a wonderful conversation with Andres.  He gave us his card just in case we should need a rescue on the way home.  The Albatross Hotel is lovely.  We dropped our bags, checked in with our loved ones and headed out to get our passports stamped with the Ushuaia stamp.  Walked about town for a bit.  There are several old houses that were made out of the ships - using every piece that they could.  They are pretty cool and quite dear as I understand it.  Took photos and headed on back to the hotel for a bite to eat.  Eventually the bus came to pick us up to go to the ship.  The sun was shining, the temps were fine, the winds were a bit active but nothing I haven't experienced living on the south-coast of New England.

To my standards this is a large ship.  However, I have been told that this is in the small category.  We found our way to our cabin which is quite nice I might say.  Did as much unpacking as we could before it was time for the life vest instruction.  With that done, it was back to our cabin. FYI, the beds have since been separately.  I took a shower and no sooner was I done then it was time for the crew introduction -- starting to feel a bit like camp but I played along.  Everyone is very nice and extremely accommodating. I still feel like a fish out of water, so to speak. There was talk about what to expect from the weather.  Apparently, there is a front moving in and we may be hanging around the Beagle Passage until it moves through. After that, it looks like clear skies for quite a while.

Finally it was time for dinner.  "Would you like to sit with other people" "Absolutely".  We had a wonderful table.  A couple from London.  The man was a high court judge and this couple actually knows Fiona Hill!!! His wife was a dentist. Another Chinese couple know live in San Diego.and a couple from Napa Valley, CA.  There was plenty of  lively conversation and we were one of the last tables to vacate.  Speaking of which, it is now 11 pm and it is still light outside.  Not sure if it ever gets dark.

Going to try and get some shut eye.

Next time.... Going through Drake Passage

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Walking Tour

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Well our bike tour turned into an all day walking adventure.  We were up bright and early, ready to seize the day.  Walked down to St. Martin Sq. to meet up with the tour guide -- no show.  There was a big hullabaloo going on for the inauguration today.  So maybe that's why they didn't show.  In any case, we felt it was a sign and we took off walking.

First order of business was to see the Floralis Generica.

Avenida Figueroa Alcorta, Buenos Aires, a gift to the city by the Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano. Catalano once said that the flower "is a synthesis of all the flowers and, at the same time, a hope reborn every day at opening."^[1] It was created in 2002. The sculpture was designed to move, closing its petals in the evening and opening them in the morning.   It weighs eighteen tons and is 23 meters high.

We were headed out to the Galileo Galilei Planetarium, when it was time for the loo.  So we popped in next door to the University of Buenos Aires - building was nice - bano, not so much.  Headed back on the course and Kate pricked her arm on some bush.  Do we have any paper product whatsoever - of course not.  It was the tiniest puncture, yet it produced quite a lot of blood.  Next stop the la-di-dah Polo Club to clean up and literally stop the bleeding. They were
very nice and Kate's wound was well attended to.  With that done it was off to the Planetarium. Beautiful building on beautiful grounds.  Closed.  Bummer.  Apparently lots of stuff is closed on Mondays.  We took a rest on the grass in the shade and met two very friendly young women.  Turns out they are here for a Jehovah Witness convention.  We had a lovely chat and in the end they handed us a card and so on and so forth.  I really wish they hadn't of done that but I guess they can't help themselves.

Really needed some food right about now.  Walked past all the gardens which were also closed and
finally came across a very loud burger joint.  Who cares it was food.  I had a salad which left a lot to be desired but I was hungry.  We were back on the pavement again and came out at the race track. Across the street from the track are the polo grounds.  By this point, I lost track of exactly how many miles we walked.  I really wanted to see the Jewish Museum/Synagogue which was another four miles.  As we pondered taking a taxi, the horse procession came riding by right in front of us.  This must have had something to do with the inauguration. It was quite a sight - it even made walking in the wrong direction worth it!  We decided on the taxi.

Pulled up in front of the museum and I handed the driver a $5 bill.  We never did get any AR pesos. He did a lot of head shaking and pointing.  So I ran into the art store next to the museum and the owner, very kindly agreed to exchange the money for me.  Just at that time, Kate runs in and says "Never mind, he thought you wanted change - he's happy to take the $5!"  So with that crisis over, we pressed the high level security button to get into the museum.  The voice at the other end of the speaker said "Must have original passport and $10 cash".  Well that ended that.  We left our passports at the hotel.  It was time to start walking again.

Got back to the hotel and Kate called 'Uncle!"  She was done.  As tired and sweaty as I was, I decided to grab my passport and take a quick taxi down and back just to see the place.  It's a thing I've done in every city I can.  I got a taxi and was back at the museum buzzer.  I was let in and had to drop my passport down a slot.  After it was inspected it was slipped back out at me.  All very clandestine.  I paid my $10 and I was in!  There is a small museum attached to the synagogue.  The museum was inaugurated in 1967. The first Jewish institution in the country was founded in 1867.

As I approached, I heard violin music.  Thinking it was being piped in from somewhere, I was surprised to find a young man playing an extraordinary instrument with a woman looking on.  The music brought chills to my spine it was so beautiful - especially in that setting.  The woman, Ann, it turns out, is a professional violinist from Victoria, Canada - One forth of the Lafayette String Quartet.  However, she studied music at B.U. in Boston. Her friend,
Fernando, is also a professional violinist from Buenes Aires.  Fernando was trying out the two violins, a Stradivari (replica) and Guarneri, that Ann had just purchased - so she can hear the sound.  Ann and I chatted up a storm.  We talked about everything from instruments to Judaism.  It was time to part.  She took a selfie of the two of us that I really would love to get.  It was such a memorable moment.

As I was leaving the building, this little elderly man comes in as I was trying to go out.  An Abbott and Costello routine followed - that is too long to produce here but quite entertaining at the time.  Turns out this guy is the resident rabbi.  Now I was really thrilled.  We talked and I learned he has a friend somewhere around the Boston area. I asked,  "Can I get picture of you"  "You got $100 bucks!" "No, but I'll give you a smile"  "OK".  This really topped off my visit.  I was very glad I got myself back to the museum, as tired as I was..

But it wasn't over yet.  When I grabbed a cab to go back, I got a very disagreeable sort.  Upset I couldn't say the address in Spanish and he had to change glasses to read it on my phone.  It was a short drive but he didn't make it very pleasant.  Towards the end, he established that I was from the US.  When we got to the hotel, I gave him a $50 US for maybe a $1.50 cab ride and told him to keep it since I didn't have any pesos.  He now became my new BFF.  We sat in the cab and talked for 10 more minutes.  He brought up Trump and I told him he can expect to see me back here next year if this guys wins.  He laughed and said he feels sorry for us all.  I guess the $5 made his dreary day and it was well worth it  to see him leave with a smile on his face.

Back at the suite, a bit of down time and talk of dinner.  Kate was moving slowly but in the end we

decided to stick to a close neighborhood restaurant.  Our bike guide gave us a few recommendations and one was right around the corner.  This place was a real find.  From the street it looks like a liquor and flower shop.  But there is a nondescript door that goes down to the cellar.  Way cool!!  We managed to snag a table without a reservation.  As luck would have it, our waiter, Dillion, is a young man from LA and just moved to Buenos Aires about 2 months ago.  Kate got very excited.  Apparently her step-daughter has talked about moving here as well.  Dillion was happy to share his contact information if she ever wants to get in touch.  He was very happy to help.  And, yes, he knows OMG Shoes!  That was another conversation.

Although our day didn't turn out as planned - really when does it ever?  And, although we might have missed out on some attractions that were closed, we had some great experiences today.  Well worth the pain our bodies are both experiencing from schlepping around for miles in 90 degree weather.  Not to worry, we should have a couple of days of nothingness on the ship to regenerate -- not to mention a good massage.  Oh, by the way, we did decide to skip those tango lessons tonight!

Early morning tomorrow.  Leaving for the domestic airport at around 5:30am.  Sweet dreams. Before I go, I want to say that the wifi on board the ship may not be all that reliable.  So not sure what will happen after tomorrow's post.  Be assured, I was post when I can.

Next time.....The Silver Cloud

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City Bike Tour

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Last night we went to a local restaurant known for its grill.  The walk was felt good after traveling for I'm not sure how many hours at this point.  The restaurant was very charming with lots of character as well as characters.  We both ordered the tenderloin with grilled veggies and would've have done better if we had split a meal.  The portions were huge. What we took back could feed the homeless - of which there is, unfortunately, quite a lot from what we saw on the small walk we took just to go to dinner.  The wine was marvelous and we got a lovely complimentary glass of champagne to top off our meal.


How was the beef you might be asking yourself. Well it was quite good.  Do I have to eat beef again?  I'm thinking not.  But for this trip, I'm keeping my options open. Caught the English Tower aglow on the walk back.  Just beautiful.

Got in around 9:30 or so and off to slumberland.

Woke up a bit groggy this morning.  Kate was half way through her morning ritual. We made it downstairs for breakfast by about 8:30 or so with plenty of time to have a bite and walk  down to meet the bike tour.

Short walk to the park.  Dead quite this morning due to the fact that it is Sunday.  Oops will there even be a tour -- I never did call.  Arrived a bit early walked around, took photos, and eventually found our bike tour leaders.  We had a small group consisting of 2 Aussies, who just did an Antarctica cruise sans wives, and a lovely woman who hails from Lebanon but now lives and travels all over.

The four hour tour took us from San Martin Park.  General San Martin is one of Buenos Aires national heroes.  Down to the Falklands Islands War Memorial, where we learned about Argentina losing the territory to the Brits.  This is still a sensitive topic for most Argentinians.  We stayed to watch the changing of the guard and it was off to the harbor, Puerto Madero.

The harbor is a lovely, picturesque area with lots of restaurants and shopping.  Built up by the Hilton to keep their clients in the style to which they are accustomed. Across the way, we took a short ride through the National Reserve. Lots of people out and about here for enjoying their Sunday.  The day may have started out quiet but as we made our way through the city, the streets grew with more and more people.  The soccer game had let out plus it was some sort of holiday. It did make the cycling a bit more challenging.

Out of the park and through the La Boca district.  The artsy part of the city.  Lots of graffiti and ironically enough, our guide, Marianna, stopped in front of the community theater.  Biked down to Caminito, where we had the chance to walk around -- lots of street vendors, artists, people wanting to tango for money.  Speaking of tango -- the dance originated in Buenos Aires by the pimps.  Who originally just danced with each other.  When their prostitutes entered the pictured, the dance developed into the romantic style it is today. The city definitely has tango fever.  I hope we get a chance to try.

Reconvened at 12:00 and made our way to San Telmo Tiene Memorial.  This is part of Buenos Aires dark history. Remnants of an old police station  sits under the modern highway.  This is where 30,000 died and disappeared during the Dirty War of 1976-1983.  In 1977 fourteen woman formed the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo to protest the disappearance of their loved ones.  The white scarf  can be seen all along the Plaza de Mayo which was our next stop. Casa Rosada sits across from the Plaza and is home to Eva Peron's famous balcony.  Eva Peron's image is virtually everywhere in this city. She is buried in Recoleta Cemetery.  This concluded our bike tour.

Brought the bikes back to the shop and walked back to the hotel.  A short rest and we were off again to explore Recoleta Cemetery.  Stopped for a small lunch of empanadas along the way.  This cemetery is absolutely amazing.  There really are no words or pictures that can describe it.  We found Eva Peron's mausoleum.  Actually passed by it once or twice.  We were looking for something grand but it was actually quite modest.  She truly was one of the people.

Eventually made our way back to the hotel.  Just time for a quick showers and to hug my bag that had arrived from United Airlines.  YAY!!!!  Soon we were off again.  Going to dinner down at Puerto Madero.  Down by the harbor where we had been in the afternoon with the bikes.  Walked along side the water and took in the sights.  Found a wonderful restaurant.  After last night's steak adventure we both chose the fish option.  I had the Patagonian trout and Kate the salmon.  Both were delicious.  Left the restaurant sated and happy.  Somehow we managed to miss a rain shower while we were inside.  Hailed a cab and are back in our suite planning tomorrow's adventure.  All in all a very good day.

Next time... Palmero Bike Tour?

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Waking Up in Buenos Aires

Sitting in Logan at the United Airlines lounge waiting and waiting.  At least I was able to have a nice lunch here.  The traffic in was very clear and going through TSA Pre-check was a real treat.  Very small line.  The only thing you have to do is take out the computer -- you even get to keep your shoes on.  Best investment ever.  Actually our credit card company paid the fee. Heard from my gal, Lisa at Silversea.  We are getting each getting $100 in cash back.  This will be deducted from our $1000 on-ship money.  So now we are left with $400 each to spend on the ship.  Since it's all inclusive that leaves a lot of massages!!

Maybe time for a glass a wine before boarding.  Finished my wine, chatted with Geoff for a while and then headed down to boarding.  Shock of shocks-- plane delay.  Bad weather - no pilot.  They are waiting for a pilot to fly in from Newark.  The agent looked over my options for connecting to Buenos Aires and they were slim to none.  Best case scenario -- board this plane when it gets here -- run like hell to the gate.  If I'm lucky, I'll have about 20 minutes to get there.  Worst case scenario, I spend the night in Houston.

Made it on the plane to Houston.  As I expected, I had to run like hell -- no little golf cart waiting for me -- but I made it.  That's the good news.  The bad news is that my luggage didn't come with me.  Hopeful it will show up at the hotel sometime tomorrow afternoon.  Ce la vie!  Both flights were fine.  The first one I sat next to a great woman and we talked for the entire 4 hour flight.  Really got my mind off my connection situation.  Not to mention that their entertainment system was down as well as their wifi.  We did have a great time.  I hope she follows the blog.  The flight from Houston to Buenos Aires was uneventful but a lot more comfortable.  Powered down the bed and get some sleep.

Landed on time, however the line going through customs went on forever -- over an hour in the queue.  Between Kate and myself we kept the conversations going and talked with some very nice people -- even a couple of guys who are going to Antarctica with the Abercrombie & Kent folks  So after getting through customs, there was the discovery of my lost bag.  Actually, we know exactly where it is -- Houston.  Paperwork needed to be done.  Needless to say, it was quite late by the time we got to the exit and we didn't see our transport person anywhere.  After much ado, we found them got our driver and away we went.

We are now resting up in this very lovely hotel suite.  Plenty of room and clean.  We will be going to dinner shortly.  Going to indulge in some Argentina beef!  Yes I said beef!  When in Rome and all that. No pictures today.  Tomorrow will start the album collection.  Till then....

Next time.... City bike tour

Fire & Ice

Fire & Ice, that is what I have dubbed this upcoming adventure.  Today, after meeting up with Kate in Houston, we head to Buenos Aires where it is hovering around a cool 85 degrees.  On Tuesday, we travel down to Ushuaia, Terra del Fuego, an archipelago off the southernmost tip of  South America, across the Strait of Magellan, which literally means "Land of Fire".  From there we board the ship, Silver Cloud, and we are off to summer in Antarctica, a balmy 30 degrees - if we are lucky.

My bags are packed and I'm ready to roll. As usual, I probably have way too much. There's warm stuff and cold stuff and lots of layering for the tundra plus having never been on a fancy cruise ship before, I threw in some "nice" stuff.  There was also all the electronics and toys that Geoff usually packs because he barely takes any clothes at all.  At the last minute, I managed to procure a small rolling case to carry on instead of my usual backpack. Kate mentioned it in passing and I thought it was a good idea to roll instead of carrying the load on my back.  So, I'm all set! 

But let's not kid ourselves into thinking that everything was going to go smoothly.  I have been dealing with my friend Carlos at Silversea for this excursion.  Everything seemed fine until I decided to check on our ground transportation from the Ushuaia airport to the ship.  You see, we are not traveling with the group - not too unusual for me.  This tour actually leaves from Santiago, Chile.  We opted to have some fun in Buenos Aires for a few days instead and made our own arrangements to get down to Ushuaia.  This was all worked out with Carlos.  We even got rebated for our hotel and airfare.  However, there was no transfer indication on our documents to get to the ship!  Fortunately when I tried to call Carlos, he was out and I got a lovely woman, Lisa, who actually is familiar with the area having worked on that expedition.  "Oh no, we can't do that, there aren't enough vehicles to accommodate everyone making special arrangements."  Apparently, had I known previously, we could have taken an earlier flight down and met the charter bus for a tour and lunch and then off we go to the ship.  As it is, we arrive too late.  After lots of calling to her manager, Lisa's solution: take a private taxi to the Albatross Hotel and she arranged a charter to meet us there at 3pm to take us to the ship.  Hopefully, the weather will cooperate and we can drop our bags and see some of the town before getting picked up.  I am now working on getting some kind of compensation for this faux pas.  And Carlos definitely needs more training!!  Personally, I think we are better off on our own then being stuck on buses with 150 other people.  But that's just me.

Silver Cloud Expedition Ship

Next time... Waking up in Buenos Aires