Tuesday, December 17, 2019

Whalers Bay/Snow Island

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM
SPECIAL ALBUM:  KAYAKING ANTARCTICA

Woke up just in time to see the ship sail through Neptune's Bellows into the caldera of Whalers Bay on Deception Island.  We were on the 7am landing again.  Layered up and headed for the zodiacs. The plan was to climb up to Neptune's Window for a view and then walk over to see the remains of what was a whaling station.
The site has been designated a Historic Site or Monument, following a proposal by Chile and Norway to the Antarctic Treaty Consultative Meeting. It comprises all pre-1970 remains on the shore of the bay. These include artefacts and structural remains from the early whaling period (1906–1912) associated with Captain Adolfus Andresen of the Chilean Sociedad Ballenera de Magallanes, the Norwegian Hektor Whaling Station (1912–1931), the period of British scientific and mapping activity (1944–1969), and a cemetery containing 35 burials and a memorial to ten men lost at sea. It also commemorates and acknowledges the historic value of other events that occurred there.
I started my trek up to the ridge.  The beach is black volcanic sand.  Not too hard walking and was beginning to regret bringing the poles.  Along the beach are various relics of bones, and ships, and
barrels from the whaling era, along with one elephant seal who was having a snooze.  As I headed up the climb became quite steep and I was now grateful for all the support the poles provided.  I got to the top of the ridge.  There are more clouds today than previously, makes the scenery a bit more ominous.  I noticed other braver souls climbing even further up.  I decided I had come far enough.  Getting down was not going to be easy.  I had a lovely young couple from Seattle guide me down making sure that there would not be a medivac in our future.  I was extremely grateful.  Really miss Geoff at times like these.  He is definitely the more sure footed of the two of us.

Made it back down to the beach.  Watched the seal yawn for a while and then took off to explore the buildings on the other side.  Ran into a Petrel bird attacking a penguin and a Kelp gull nesting in one of the structures.  What I didn't come across was the cemetery.  I guess I didn't go far enough and no one said anything while I was there.  I just read about it in my research. Not sure if Kate spotted it or not.  Will ask later.

Well it was back to the boat and hopefully the last time I'll have to go scrub my boots.  You get a whole different outfit to kayak.  The P.A. came on -- it was time for the polar plunge.  No thank you. But I did go out and watch.  There were about 60 idiots out there jumping into freezing water being pulled in with a tether -- not my kind of fun.  I stayed for a while and then went to lunch.  Before long it was time for the kayak briefing and then putting on the another attractive outfit.  The 12 of us went out to the island in the zodiacs and we boarded the kayaks from the boat.

WOW oh WOW!! It was an amazing feeling being out on that water watching the seals and penguins
from a whole other perspective.  Since no one had come to this island before, the guides didn't quite know what to expect.  It was covered with elephant seals.  We also spotted a tiger seal dining on a penguin - but I couldn't get the picture.  We kayaked for about 2 hours and went quite far out.  I noticed a familiar ripple in the distance - when Calle said "Don't think we can go much further that is open ocean out there and that is the Drake Passage".  Very wise, good time to turn around.  I was thinking about the paddle back, when the zodiacs pulled up.  "Did somebody call an Uber?"  We all moved from the kayak into the zodiac and we were off.

Got back to the room around 6pm.  I had a 7:45 massage appointment.  Not enough time to go dining.  I made a quick call to Geoff and headed to the bar for a cocktail.  Sat with the guys from Toronto.  Ironically, their wives didn't want to come so they were all here by themselves.  We had a great chat.  They went off to eat and I went to the spa.  It felt good after all this body went through this week, but certainly not worth the money they ask. We have all this "ship credit" that needs to get spent and they've run out of stuff in the store.  By this time, it is 9:30 and I'm starving.  Went up to the Panorama Lounge I ordered some dinner while waiting for my team to show up for Name that Tune -- very campy but a lot of fun.  Of course, it turned into a disco.  There I am in the middle of the dance floor in flip-flops because this toe will not heal.  Not sure dancing helped but it was a lot of fun.

We are now sailing through the dreaded Drake Passage.  So far, so good.  A nice gentle roll.  It is way past my bedtime.  Finally can sleep in.  Nighty nite

Next time.... Another day at sea

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM
SPECIAL ALBUM:  KAYAKING ANTARCTICA

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