The Journey Home

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM  

CLICK HERE: VOYAGE MAP

CLICK HERE: ANTARCTICA DEC 10-20,2019: THE MOVIE  -.MP4  (for pc)

CLICK HERE: ANTARCTICA DEC 10-20,2019: THE MOVIE - .MOV (for Apple)

Woke up back in port in Ushuaia.  As you can image, a great deal of hustle and bustle.  Since our group was the first to disembark, Kate and I had coffee and a light breakfast in the cabin thinking it would save time.  We missed the buffet upstairs.  I'm a bit sorry for that. I would've liked to have said some more good-byes to people.  I have lots of contact information and hopefully, will stay in touch with some folks.  But you know how that works out.  We'll see.  As it turned out, we got off the ship all right, but the bus had to wait around for some who weren't as considerate.

It was a very long day of airports, lines, planes, etc. etc.  Ushuaia airport was fine just a bit slow.

Steve McCurry and his wife, Andie along with his photog assistant were on our flight.  If I didn't mention it earlier -- Steve is most famous for his photograph of the "Afghan Girl", which was on the cover of the National Geographic in 1984.  We have exchanged contact info.  I am hoping he comes out with a book of this trip to Antarctica.  That would be something to have.

The views leaving Ushuaia were beautiful.  The volcanic mountains of Terra del Feugo.  However, it was pouring rain when we landed in Buenos Aires.   We had a very long walk between the domestic and international terminals.  Eventually we got to the United counted which didn't open till 7pm.  It was only around 4:30.  Settled into a Starbucks and waited.  By the time we got checked in and made our way to the United lounge my toe

was not very happy.  Swollen and oozing it was time to call the doctor!  For no charge, a medical team came up and re-wrapped the toe.  From there, I was wheeled to the gate. Oy vey!! I was told that a wheelchair would be waiting for me in Houston.

The flight although a bit bumpy was fine.  Had a light dinner, watched a movie, and slept.  I didn't have too much time to connect to Boston, especially since we had to go through customs.  Kate had even less time.  What came next was literally an airport nightmare.

There was a wheelchair for me but no "pusher".  After a long wait someone finally came to push.  Then I got transferred to the big 9 people cart and waited for more handicappers. Finally we started moving and I thought "Good this is it - we're on our way to customs".  Not so fast.  We ended up in a queue with, I can't tell you how many people carts there were but it was several filled with folks with canes and walkers and you get the picture.  This was going to take forever.  I got out of the cart hobbled right up to the desk, demanded my boarding pass, and hobbled on over to customs.  With Global Entry, I went right through but the line  going through TSA was huge - no pre-check here.  With my foot throbbing, I took the skyway to terminal C.  The United lounge was right there.  Went in sat down, put my foot up and took a deep breath.  Had time for a quick cup of coffee and I had to get over to Gate 9 from Gate 1.  Houston airport is ridiculously large - the gates are miles apart.  This wasn't going to be fun.  And then..... I spotted a sign "Need Help?"  Yes indeed.  There sat a group of wheelchairs with "pushers'!!!  I was escorted by a lovely woman who even waited while I made a stop at the restroom.  Phew!  I was on my last leg - literally.

I sat next to a lovely woman originally from Nantucket, now living in Texas, who is visiting her daughter in Mashpee.  We had a nice chat and I found out she used to do a lot of cycling.  She has even done the NYC Bike the 5 Boroughs tour twice.  Exchanged info - maybe I'll paths will cross again.  Landed in Boston 20 minutes early.

Geoff was waiting at the baggage claim and I was ever so happy to see him.  The traffic was horrendous.  Got home, took a shower, and settled in to watch the Patriots clinch the AFC East. Immediately feel asleep.....

We had an extraordinary adventure and I am so happy I went and so happy to be home.  Thanks to Kate and everyone along the way.  Truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Now on to the next one.....

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

CLICK HERE: VOYAGE MAP

CLICK HERE: ANTARCTICA DEC 10-20,2019: THE MOVIE

NOTE:   I have uploaded the movie on my Google Drive.  It's a mov file, so you might need to convert for viewing.

Sailing to Ushuaia

A bit bumpy last night. It  felt liked I was rocked to sleep.  I had breakfast with a brother & sister from Philly who I kayaked with.  Small world - Malcolm went to BU Law School when I worked for the Center for Criminal Justice at BU.  We know the same people!!  Lydia and William from San Diego via Singapore showed up soon.  Lydia was one of the few women who worked as a programmer for NASA in the very early days. She has been included in the book Rocket Girls -- really fascinating.  Might have also been included in Hidden Figures if the focus was broader than African American women.  They are a lovely couple and I hope to get a chance to visit in San Diego.

It was time for Movie Trivia which our team really bombed on.  We made a plan to reconvene at 1:30 in the observatory lounge to play a round or two of Cards Against Humanity.  The weather continues to be fabulous with a temperature of 54 degrees!!!  I dropped all my Hot Hands and Hot Toes off at the Expedition desk for the staff to use.  They stand out there all day guiding us and get quite cold standing around.  Figured they can use this stuff more than I can.  I spread the word and lots of other folks are going to do the same.  Also my suitcase is just busting at the seams.

At 4pm it was final team trivia.  Our team incorporated a few more people and we came out the grand winners!  Cashed in our points for prizes.  More stuff to squeeze in the suitcase. Pretty soon we are gathering to see the video of this adventure.  We are told we all get a copy.

The video is absolutely magnificent.  Will try to post it to my Google drive when I get back. Dinner was grand.  Sat with some old friends and a couple of new ones.  Time to go finish packing and "put the luggage out."  Then I scurried off to Karoke - yes I did!  The last hurrah.  I sang Santa Baby with my best Eartha Kitt  that got a good round of applause.  For my finale, Ian and I did a very poor rendition of Don't Go Breaking My Heart. Time to leave. Took some shots  of ships passing in the night.  Tucked myself into bed as we sailed to shore.

Next time... The Journey Home

On Our Way Back Home...

Just writing to let you know that I have not fallen off the end of the earth.  As you might have guessed by now, there has been very limited wifi so uploading the photos did not happen  I have continued to write daily along with daily photo albums and will post everything as soon as possible. 

I have upgraded the wifi connection with our "ship money" but so far it is not any better.  I am hoping to get this post off just to tell everyone THIS WAS F-ING AMAZING!!!!!  Everyday an adventure.  We are sailing back through the dreaded Drake Passage. A bit rocky but nothing is flying off the shelves yet.

Stay tuned for the real thing.....

Rockin' n' Rollin'

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

The seas have certainly picked up as soon as we left snow island.  The boat rocked all night.  A lot less people at breakfast this morning.  I didn't think it was a big deal.  A bit uneasy to walk but you just have to hold on.

The day was filled with activities. An English lunch of fish and chips was served in the pub with a sing-a-long (very campy).  There was a kayak upload hour in the photo lab at 1pm.  The download was at 4pm.  Jake collected everyone's pictures and put them in their respective date folders for everyone to download their trip.  I got Kate's and my own. We had a very interested tour of the bridge. You could really see the swells from up there.

Before I knew it, it was time for trivia.  Our team won today!  Then it was straight to the afternoon briefing and recap.  Briefing consisted of "When do we put the luggage out?"  The recap, however, was very interesting. A few of the expedition leaders did short presentations of their observations of the last week.  They were all very clever and entertaining.

At 7 pm there was the captain's parade.  A big hug and kiss for the crew.  Two butlers escorted Kate and myself up to the festivities  Nice touch. Dinner seemed to go on forever.  We knew all the people at our table now.  I tried to get our old table 21 but was told no.  "Why not?"  "That's the Captain's table."  "Doesn't he know it's ours???"  Needless to say, we have been sitting in the best seat in the house all week without knowing it.

Our late night entertainment consisted of Brian, the entertainment director, putting on a one man show.  He was fabulous and does a terrific job of keeping everyone happy on board..

One more day at sea and then it is time to start boarding planes.

Next time.... Sailing to Ushuaia

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

Whalers Bay/Snow Island

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM
SPECIAL ALBUM:  KAYAKING ANTARCTICA

Woke up just in time to see the ship sail through Neptune's Bellows into the caldera of Whalers Bay on Deception Island.  We were on the 7am landing again.  Layered up and headed for the zodiacs. The plan was to climb up to Neptune's Window for a view and then walk over to see the remains of what was a whaling station.

The site has been designated a Historic Site or Monument, following a proposal by Chile and Norway to the Antarctic Treaty Consultative Meeting. It comprises all pre-1970 remains on the shore of the bay. These include artefacts and structural remains from the early whaling period (1906–1912) associated with Captain Adolfus Andresen of the Chilean Sociedad Ballenera de Magallanes, the Norwegian Hektor Whaling Station (1912–1931), the period of British scientific and mapping activity (1944–1969), and a cemetery containing 35 burials and a memorial to ten men lost at sea. It also commemorates and acknowledges the historic value of other events that occurred there.

I started my trek up to the ridge.  The beach is black volcanic sand.  Not too hard walking and was beginning to regret bringing the poles.  Along the beach are various relics of bones, and ships, and

barrels from the whaling era, along with one elephant seal who was having a snooze.  As I headed up the climb became quite steep and I was now grateful for all the support the poles provided.  I got to the top of the ridge.  There are more clouds today than previously, makes the scenery a bit more ominous.  I noticed other braver souls climbing even further up.  I decided I had come far enough.  Getting down was not going to be easy.  I had a lovely young couple from Seattle guide me down making sure that there would not be a medivac in our future.  I was extremely grateful.  Really miss Geoff at times like these.  He is definitely the more sure footed of the two of us.

Made it back down to the beach.  Watched the seal yawn for a while and then took off to explore the buildings on the other side.  Ran into a Petrel bird attacking a penguin and a Kelp gull nesting in one of the structures.  What I didn't come across was the cemetery.  I guess I didn't go far enough and no one said anything while I was there.  I just read about it in my research. Not sure if Kate spotted it or not.  Will ask later.

Well it was back to the boat and hopefully the last time I'll have to go scrub my boots.  You get a whole different outfit to kayak.  The P.A. came on -- it was time for the polar plunge.  No thank you. But I did go out and watch.  There were about 60 idiots out there jumping into freezing water being pulled in with a tether -- not my kind of fun.  I stayed for a while and then went to lunch.  Before long it was time for the kayak briefing and then putting on the another attractive outfit.  The 12 of us went out to the island in the zodiacs and we boarded the kayaks from the boat.

WOW oh WOW!! It was an amazing feeling being out on that water watching the seals and penguins

from a whole other perspective.  Since no one had come to this island before, the guides didn't quite know what to expect.  It was covered with elephant seals.  We also spotted a tiger seal dining on a penguin - but I couldn't get the picture.  We kayaked for about 2 hours and went quite far out.  I noticed a familiar ripple in the distance - when Calle said "Don't think we can go much further that is open ocean out there and that is the Drake Passage".  Very wise, good time to turn around.  I was thinking about the paddle back, when the zodiacs pulled up.  "Did somebody call an Uber?"  We all moved from the kayak into the zodiac and we were off.

Got back to the room around 6pm.  I had a 7:45 massage appointment.  Not enough time to go dining.  I made a quick call to Geoff and headed to the bar for a cocktail.  Sat with the guys from Toronto.  Ironically, their wives didn't want to come so they were all here by themselves.  We had a great chat.  They went off to eat and I went to the spa.  It felt good after all this body went through this week, but certainly not worth the money they ask. We have all this "ship credit" that needs to get spent and they've run out of stuff in the store.  By this time, it is 9:30 and I'm starving.  Went up to the Panorama Lounge I ordered some dinner while waiting for my team to show up for Name that Tune -- very campy but a lot of fun.  Of course, it turned into a disco.  There I am in the middle of the dance floor in flip-flops because this toe will not heal.  Not sure dancing helped but it was a lot of fun.

We are now sailing through the dreaded Drake Passage.  So far, so good.  A nice gentle roll.  It is way past my bedtime.  Finally can sleep in.  Nighty nite

Next time.... Another day at sea

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM
SPECIAL ALBUM:  KAYAKING ANTARCTICA

Brown Bluff/Hope Bay

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

JonJon, our butler, knocked on our door delivering a very early breakfast.  Wanted to be up and ready for the 7am landing.  We were both moving rather slowly.   The passage during the night sounded very crunchy breaking through the brush ice.  There was also a bit of rocking and rolling. Sure enough our morning landing has been cancelled due to extreme high winds.  It is still very sunny.

Oh well, we weren't terribly disappointed. Our landing has turned into an expedition cruise.  It was a

pleasure not having to put on the outfit. Layering up and then trucking downstairs to try and put your boots on with all this clothing is a real feat!  Gives a whole new meaning to the expression "booting up".  Tucked ourselves back into bed when suddenly there appeared a gigantic iceberg outside our balcony.  This berg is part of the Larsen B ice shelf which is a small part of the Larsen Ice Shelf in the Weddell Sea that has been disintegrating more and more rapidly as the years pass.  The berg we saw is 175 meters down below sea level and 50 meters tall above.  No one could tell us how long it extended.

In the Southern Hemisphere summer of 2002, scientists monitoring daily satellite images of the Antarctic Peninsula watched in amazement as almost the entire Larsen B Ice Shelf splintered and collapsed in just over one month. They had never witnessed such a large area—3,250 square kilometers, or 1,250 square miles—disintegrate so rapidly.

The collapse of the Larsen appears to have been due to a series of warm summers on the Antarctic Peninsula, which culminated with an exceptionally warm summer in 2002. Significant surface melting due to warm air temperatures created melt ponds that acted like wedges; they deepened the crevasses and eventually caused the shelf to splinter.

We have the ship's camera on the tv and we get a view from the bridge.  It was time to hit the deck and see this thing up close.  Another WOW moment!  Traveling around on a much smaller berg, we spotted the Adelie penguins.  These little guys are known for their stupidity - decision making is not their strong suit.

The wind is really howling out there.  Feels like home.  Guess we are staying inside for a while.  Trivia, lunch, a short rest and it was time to suit up for our exploration of Hope Bay and the Argentinian Base Esperanza.  This is a military/research base and is one of the larger ones.

We had a tour of the facilities - visiting the school and church.  Note that the crosses on the top of the hill do not designate graves but is a memorial to the men who passed. We were able to buy simple souvenirs at what looks like the local VFW club. Our postcards were stamped with the base stamp and each received a personal signature from the commander in charge, who we were fortunate to have as our guide, along with his daughter.  Another wonderful experience.

Esperanza base is a permanent, all-year-round Argentine research station in Hope Bay, Trinity Peninsula (in Graham Land on the Antarctic Peninsula). It is one of only two civilian settlements in Antarctica (the other being the Chilean Villa Las Estrellas). The base's motto is Permanencia, un acto de sacrificio ('Permanence, an act of sacrifice').

Built in 1953, the base houses 55 inhabitants in winter, including 10 families and 2 school teachers. Provincial school #38 Presidente Raúl Ricardo Alfonsín (formerly named Julio Argentino Roca) was founded in 1978 and acquired independent status in 1997. It maintains the furthest South Scout troop. The base has an Argentine civil register office where births and weddings are recorded.The base has tourist facilities that are visite The LRA 36 Radio Nacional Arcángel San Gabriel radio station started transmitting in 1979 and currently broadcasts on shortwave and FM. A wind generator was installed in 2008, mounted by INVAP.

The base was the birthplace of Emilio Palma, the first person to be born in Antarctica. There have been at least ten other children born at the base.

Back on board and I couldn't keep my eyes open.  Finally was able to take a nap and got up in time for the daily briefing. Kate decided to have dinner in the room and I went to the restaurant.  I sat our old table with a whole other group of people.  Lots of interesting conversation all around.  This is all a bit too posh for me but I do have to say that so far everyone is very friendly, world traveled and the conversations are fascinating.

Since the wind was so strong, kayaking was cancelled all day.  I am hoping for better conditions tomorrow.  It'll be my last chance.  After tomorrow, we head back through Drake's passage and we are on our way home.

Next time...Whalers Bay/Snow Island

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

Spert Is/Mikkelsen Harbour

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

Up early for our 8 am zodiac cruise.  Another magnificent day.  Oscar was our guide.  Just to add to our adventure, we came upon one lonely Emperor Penguin a long way from home. The emperor penguin is the tallest and heaviest of all living penguin species and is endemic to Antarctica The guides were just as excited as we were.  That zodiac tour had to be one of the highlights so far.

It was back to the cabin and then same old, same old.  Trivia, lunch, briefing and layer up for the
afternoon stroll across the ice. Upon landing, you immediately come across an old whaling ship with a rather large pile of whale bones. At this harbour we saw, more Gentoo, a couple of Adelie penguins (who are the real stupid variety). and some Weddell seals taking in the sun.  There is also an emergency rescue station.  It was a short but pleasant walk.

Tonight we bundle up and eat outside at the Hot Rocks Grill by the pool.  Something about cooking your food on hot rocks.  We'll see.  Going early to get a good heater.

Well I got a notice that I was scheduled to kayak tomorrow morning.  That was great news and it also meant that it wouldn't interfere with the visit to the Argentinian Military/Research Center that I was really looking forward to.  So of course, tonight they changed the plans to an afternoon kayak tomorrow.  That was not suitable at all.  I was able to track down one of the kayak leaders and explain the situation.  I now will be going kayaking on the very last day possible.  Let's all pray for good weather.

Had a drink at the bar with Kate and we were off to meet Genie and Donna at the Hot Rocks pool restaurant.  The food was absolutely delicious.  You get your own "hot rock" and cook your own food.  I ordered my second filet and it was quite tasty. Not that I'll go back to eating meat, but it was a real treat.  We all had a fabulous dinner and enjoyed dining al fresco watching the icebergs go by.

Extremely tired tonight...

Next time... Brown Bluff/Hope Bay

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

Cuverville Island/Neko Harbour

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM
SPECIAL ABLUM:  ORCAS!!

Today celebrates the 108th anniversary of the first man, Roald Amundsen, to arrive at the South Pole - December 14, 1911.

OMG!! What a magnificent day.  I am so grateful I got to experience today's adventure.  Not to go into too much detail but, as is par for the course, I had an "issue".  This time huge blisters on tiny little toe - probably from the marching around in Buenos Aires.  I had been attending to it, but  the hike yesterday must have really aggravated it.  Woke up around 2am in a world of pain. Kate helped out with ice, more antibiotic, more ibuprofen and I was back to sleep.  The plan was to see the doctor in the morning.

Looking out the window this morning, was a sight to behold.  Sunshine, mild temps, and no wind.  I just had to go out on this landing. Fortunately, the toe felt way better and I wrapped it very well.  Ordered room service for breakfast to give it as much rest as possible.  Our group announcement came and it was time to "layer up".  We were in the zodiacs and on land in about 20 minutes.

Our first landing is Cuverville Island, which is still part of the Antarctica peninsula.  The guides had carved out  a trail for us up to the ridge. Zigzagging our way up, you have to be careful not to interfere with the penguin highway.  Mostly Gentoos around here.  As you can see from the pics, the views are just stunning.  Postcard perfect.  Ever so glad I was able to climb to the top.  Actually, the hiking was a bit better than yesterday.  Navigating all that rocky terrain was a bit more trickier than the snow.  The climb was gradual and no one was in a hurry.  It did get rather warm with all the layers - might adjust for the afternoon landing.

A little relaxing in the cabin and then I realized it was time for team trivia. Said goodbye to Kate and bolted out the door.  The trivia is a hoot!  Everything was running late today - not sure why but trivia was no exception.  Hung out and chatted as these amazing sights went by while sitting in the Panorama Lounge.  We won our points and it was time for lunch.  Genie, Donna, and myself went up to the buffet.  The view there is stunning.  I made it around the whole buffet till I discovered the sushi at the end!  Drats - I'll need another plate.  Carlos (our usual waiter at night) is right by side with a tray and a plate to carry it all to my table.  Getting very, very spoiled here.

At 1:15 Skulk gives a briefing on what to expect for the following day.  That takes about 15 minutes.  Afterward, I wondered around the deck taking in the sights.  Each one more magnificent than the next.  We are now docked at Neko Harbour.  This is a steep climb to what is supposed to be one of the best views.  Hope I make it!

Piece of cake!  The climb wasn't nearly as bad as it looked.  I went slow and steady and when I reached the top there was a round of applause!  They didn't lie about the views.  It all seemed unworldly.  I took my time going back.  Met up with Kate on the way up - we were in two different zodiacs.  Got stuck in a penguin traffic jam so I just missed the last zodiac going back with my group. Shucks!! That means I was the only one in the next boat.  Frede took me on a private tour of the harbour and got some shots of the ice breaking up.  While on the climb, we did hear rumblings but never saw anything.

Just out of the shower. Kicking up with a beer and some munchies. Kate just came in and said I left my poles in the mud room.  Sweetheart that she is, she went back downstairs to secure them.  Speaking of poles. Thank you Lucy!!!! They are terrific and have been a great help.

Dinner was very entertaining.  We sat at a different table and had the company of one of excursion staff, Oscar.  He is a wealth of information concerning plants, animals, nature and the like.  As one of our party said "It's a pleasure to hear someone talk about something other than the places they've been."  And that is so true.  After dinner, I stayed in the restaurant chatting with some other folks and then suddenly the call went out that Orcas were spotted.  Everyone ran like hell to get to a viewing point.  They were absolutely amazing.  Not to mention the light cast by the setting sun.  And if that weren't enough, we were witness to an avalanche.  Boy it can't get much better than that.  My group finally left the deck at around midnight.

How I wish Geoff was here to experience what I just saw this evening and for the last two days.

Oh well,  early call tomorrow.  We are out on the 8am zodiac.

Next time....Zodiac cruise Spert Island

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM
SPECIAL ABLUM:  ORCAS!!

Yankee Harbor/Half Moon Is.

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

Our landing was not until 10am this morning, so there was plenty of time for coffee and breakfast  Dressing for Antarctica takes some practice.  Not to mention gathering all your stuff.  You have on at least two layers of clothing, a balaclava, hat, sock liners, socks, glove liners and finally gloves.  Then comes this huge parka that they give you along with you pfd, which ways a ton.  Some people carried backpacks and poles.  I left the pack and the poles for both of our landings today.  I wore the camera around my neck in a dray back for protection from the elements.  It did snow occasionally. Fortunately for all of us there was absolutely no winds and the temperature was 32 degrees in the morning and in the afternoon about 24 degrees.  Quiet mild.  It does get a bit chilly riding on the zodiac.

Our first landing was on Yankee Harbor.  This was basically an introduction to what is to come. It
was a short flat hike with lots of Gentoo penguins, elephant seals and one lonely Weddle seal.  We stayed out for about an hour and  it was back to the ship.  When you get back, you have to sanitize you boots, leave them on a shelf and make sure that you brought down a pair of shoes to go back to the room.  It is quite a process.

Ate lunch with Kate, Genie and Donna.  Kate had to get ready for
her kayak adventure.  I tried to get some rest while I had the cabin all to myself.  The afternoon landing was happening right in front of our balcony so I was able to grab some shots of the red penguins.  My trip out was 5:30.  I wanted to make sure I got on the first zodiac out so I would be back a little earlier for the trivia contest.  It turned out to be a good strategy.  When I got to Half Moon Island, there weren't many people there.  There is about an half mile hike over some very rocky, a bit snowy, and muddy terrain.  But when you get to the top of the ridge, you meet Kevin.  Kevin is the lonely Macaroni Penguin who has infiltrated this colony of Chinstraps.  He has been here for about 14 years or maybe more.  Must have lost his way somewhere and just landed here.  He is usually found sleeping, but today I stood there and watched as he decided he would get up and look around.  He is quite something.

The surrounding beauty is nothing you can  describe.  I hiked back and got back on a zodiac going my way.  Time to shower.  I checked in at the dining room, put in my order and ran upstairs to play trivia.  Didn't do as good today as yesterday.  Kate and I had some new faces at our table this evening. A couple from Utah and another couple from Singapore and our old friends from San Diego  More lively conversation.

I bowed out early and am now going to try to get some sleep.

Next time... Cuverville Island/Neko Harbour

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

Smooth Sailing

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

The seas remained calm again today.  So far we have been very lucky.  It was a bit cloudier and maybe a bit more chillier but I think it is colder at home.  Today was around 34 degrees.  Had a leisurely morning starting with coffee in the room and then up to the restaurant for breakfast.

At 11 am there was an interview with a world famous photographer, Steve McCurry.  Great stuff. Found the whole thing very interesting. Back in the cabin, I took some shots of the local birds gliding around the ship. Mostly kelp gulls, I've been told.  Kate came back and we were sorting out about what to take kayaking.  If we don't go together, she can have my waterproof camera, and when I go I can borrow her new cap with the visor -- which was highly recommended for glare.  Just as we finished, there was an announcement that a couple of humpbacks have been spotted along side the ship.  We couldn't get out of the room fast enough.  They were rather large and having great fun with the ship.  I did the best I could to get some pix.  Apparently, humpbacks are quite common.  We are now on the look-out for blues and or orcas.

As I was coming down from the deck, I introduced myself to our expedition leader, Skulk, from South Africa.  Had a nice long chat about our visit there this winter.  The guy who owns the bike shop where we bought the bike shirts, is a very good friend of his. He is from Plattenberg Bay.  He was thrilled to talk about his home town.

After all that excitement it was time for lunch.  I sat with a woman I have been talking to on and off since we boarded.  The next activity was the volcano lecture.  We will be sailing into a caldera.  Geoff called in the middle of it from the Channel 5 Christmas party.  I turned on the video and got to say to some old friends and let them see a bit of the Drake Passage.

4:30 and it was time for team trivia in the panorama lounge.  I asked the table where Ann was if they needed another body -- "no, we sorry, we're full".  So Brian, the ringmaster, sat me down with Andrew and Andrew for the UK.  Then came Genie and Donna, who were the two gals from dinner last night.  The 5 of us had smallest team but we kicked butt!!  The winners gather up points and at the end of the cruise you can trade them in for the big stuffed rabbit or some such.

5:00 is our briefing for the next day's landing.  As we were walking in, one of the women from the first trivia table I approached, said "Well, there were teams with more than 6 - you could have joined us.  She was sorry she said no now!"  Kate and I will be going on our first landing at 10 am tomorrow.  We are both very excited.

Dinner was a hoot this evening.  We were joined by the world famous photographer, Steve, and his

wife Andy, along with two of the ships kayak excursionists - Celle from Sweden who now lives in Norway and Jake who lives in the Thunder Bay area in Canada. Also joining us was David and Kim from Wisconsin.  Needless to say the conversation was very lively.  We also spotted our very first Antarctica iceberg.  Celle tells me that we are on the same line as Anchorage.  So the daylight is pretty much the same only reverse time of year. Also the time difference will only be two hours for the whole tour.  There was a lot of discussion about that and some said it might be New Zealand time which would be 13 hours.  I may get to see that football game yet!

Since we were sitting with the kayak guys, Kate found out that she will be going out tomorrow on the afternoon kayak excursion.  My lottery number is pretty low so I'm not even sure I'll get to go.  But the guys said if I'm a single I have a better chance when someone cancels.  I'll just have to wait.

It's been a pretty nice day all around.  The albums are going to be small.  It takes very long to upload.  Looking forward to our first landing.  Till then sunset in Antarctica...

Next time... Yankee Harbor/Half Moon Bay

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Crossing the Drake Passage

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Started sailing into the Drake Passage last night.  It felt like a big cradle rock.  So far this has been very smooth sailing.  We learned that the captain had stayed a few extra hours in the Beagle Passage before heading out to Drake just to let the weather pass.  We are all very grateful.  It feels like Drake Lake now. The sun is bright and the winds have been very calm.  But we all know that can change in a heartbeat.  I took an early morning tour of the ship this morning.  Very quiet - I was the only one around until I found the coffee.  Even then, there were only two other women.  It was a good time to get acquainted with the place. Although I still look at the map.  Tomorrow morning I'll get coffee via room service -- something I am not very used to doing.  I had a wonderful breakfast.  A small souffle with spinach and artichoke.  Very yummy.  It was time to get some answers as to why I couldn't get my computer connected to the wifi last night.  Apparently you can only have one device online at a time. Hence, the phone had to disconnect before I can connect the laptop.  Guess you have to read ALL the instructions - duh!

Pretty soon after breakfast was the ship introduction. A general meet and greet and explanations of what to do and where to find things.  This rolled right into the zodiac intro. All about how to get in and out and what to wear. Read for a bit and talked with some people till it was time for the kayak seminar.  Without going to this you are not eligible to kayak.  Since time and space is limited, the kayaking is done by lottery.  Hopefully if the weather holds out everyone will get a chance to go out.  Kate and I signed up separately, so we may not go out together.  This way we can exchange our information.  No matter what everyone goes out either on a land excursion or zodiac cruise twice a day.  Probably starting on Friday.  We have another whole day of sailing through the passage before arriving at Antarctica.

Before I had to go down to the bio-security check - this is where they check whatever gear you brought that has previously been used in other environments- I took a lovely stroll around the pool and observation decks.  Video called my brother on WhatsApp and gave him a small walking tour of the ship.  Then it was time for inspection.  All my stuff passed and I am now back in the room contemplating a sauna.  Yes, definitely.  Back from the sauna and steam spa -- Kate is still napping, so I wander up to the Panorama Lounge for a cocktail and some munchies.  Lots of folks up there but I really didn't join in any conversation.  It is now time for the Captain's Welcome Cocktail and then I suppose dinner.  Until then...

More meet and greet at the Captain's Welcome Cocktail.  We met a lovely young woman, Leah, from Canadian Vancouver.  Wound up having dinner with her, two other women traveling together from St. Louis, and a couple from Dallas who want to get a game of "Cards Against Humanity" going. That should be fun. They've gone up to play "Name That Tune".  This really is camp.  Can't wait till the action begins.

Sweet dreams...

Next time... Antarctica

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Boarding @ Ushuaia

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Up at 5am and scurried to be downstairs by 5:30.  I ran and got a cup of coffee while Kate dealt with check-out. We were lucky this morning. There was a Peruvian flight crew up early and the early breakfast was really for them. We just caught a break - usually breakfast does not open till 6am.  The taxi came pretty close to 6 and there was a lot of conversation about which airport and how long it would take and how much $$.  The driver broke out his Google Translator and all questions were answered.

The domestic airport is a busy place. We made our way to check-in and then went our separate ways.  I took advantage of the upgrade auction to be able to stretch out -- my knee is not a happy camper after the past couple of days.  I went in search of a VIP lounge -- not here, too small.  Walked around a bit and eventually met up with Kate at the gate.  Said good-bye to Buenos Aires as the plane took off. It was a short but very fulfilling visit. I am now enjoying my luxury seat immensely.  Just finished a small breakfast and waiting to land in about an hour and a half or so.  As mentioned previously, we'll have a couple of hours in Ushuaia before the charter comes for us.  We are both pretty psyched about finally getting on board.

Easy landing with glorious sights.  Did not expect so much
sunshine.  Thought it was going to rain today.  Grabbed a taxi and had a wonderful conversation with Andres.  He gave us his card just in case we should need a rescue on the way home.  The Albatross Hotel is lovely.  We dropped our bags, checked in with our loved ones and headed out to get our passports stamped with the Ushuaia stamp.  Walked about town for a bit.  There are several old houses that were made out of the ships - using every piece that they could.  They are pretty cool and quite dear as I understand it.  Took photos and headed on back to the hotel for a bite to eat.  Eventually the bus came to pick us up to go to the ship.  The sun was shining, the temps were fine, the winds were a bit active but nothing I haven't experienced living on the south-coast of New England.

To my standards this is a large ship.  However, I have been told that this is in the small category.  We found our way to our cabin which is quite nice I might say.  Did as much unpacking as we could before it was time for the life vest instruction.  With that done, it was back to our cabin. FYI, the beds have since been separately.  I took a shower and no sooner was I done then it was time for the crew introduction -- starting to feel a bit like camp but I played along.  Everyone is very nice and extremely accommodating. I still feel like a fish out of water, so to speak. There was talk about what to expect from the weather.  Apparently, there is a front moving in and we may be hanging around the Beagle Passage until it moves through. After that, it looks like clear skies for quite a while.

Finally it was time for dinner.  "Would you like to sit with other people" "Absolutely".  We had a wonderful table.  A couple from London.  The man was a high court judge and this couple actually knows Fiona Hill!!! His wife was a dentist. Another Chinese couple know live in San Diego.and a couple from Napa Valley, CA.  There was plenty of  lively conversation and we were one of the last tables to vacate.  Speaking of which, it is now 11 pm and it is still light outside.  Not sure if it ever gets dark.

Going to try and get some shut eye.

Next time.... Going through Drake Passage

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Walking Tour

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Well our bike tour turned into an all day walking adventure.  We were up bright and early, ready to seize the day.  Walked down to St. Martin Sq. to meet up with the tour guide -- no show.  There was a big hullabaloo going on for the inauguration today.  So maybe that's why they didn't show.  In any case, we felt it was a sign and we took off walking.

First order of business was to see the Floralis Generica.

Avenida Figueroa Alcorta, Buenos Aires, a gift to the city by the Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano. Catalano once said that the flower "is a synthesis of all the flowers and, at the same time, a hope reborn every day at opening."^[1] It was created in 2002. The sculpture was designed to move, closing its petals in the evening and opening them in the morning.   It weighs eighteen tons and is 23 meters high.

We were headed out to the Galileo Galilei Planetarium, when it was time for the loo.  So we popped in next door to the University of Buenos Aires - building was nice - bano, not so much.  Headed back on the course and Kate pricked her arm on some bush.  Do we have any paper product whatsoever - of course not.  It was the tiniest puncture, yet it produced quite a lot of blood.  Next stop the la-di-dah Polo Club to clean up and literally stop the bleeding. They were
very nice and Kate's wound was well attended to.  With that done it was off to the Planetarium. Beautiful building on beautiful grounds.  Closed.  Bummer.  Apparently lots of stuff is closed on Mondays.  We took a rest on the grass in the shade and met two very friendly young women.  Turns out they are here for a Jehovah Witness convention.  We had a lovely chat and in the end they handed us a card and so on and so forth.  I really wish they hadn't of done that but I guess they can't help themselves.

Really needed some food right about now.  Walked past all the gardens which were also closed and
finally came across a very loud burger joint.  Who cares it was food.  I had a salad which left a lot to be desired but I was hungry.  We were back on the pavement again and came out at the race track. Across the street from the track are the polo grounds.  By this point, I lost track of exactly how many miles we walked.  I really wanted to see the Jewish Museum/Synagogue which was another four miles.  As we pondered taking a taxi, the horse procession came riding by right in front of us.  This must have had something to do with the inauguration. It was quite a sight - it even made walking in the wrong direction worth it!  We decided on the taxi.

Pulled up in front of the museum and I handed the driver a $5 bill.  We never did get any AR pesos. He did a lot of head shaking and pointing.  So I ran into the art store next to the museum and the owner, very kindly agreed to exchange the money for me.  Just at that time, Kate runs in and says "Never mind, he thought you wanted change - he's happy to take the $5!"  So with that crisis over, we pressed the high level security button to get into the museum.  The voice at the other end of the speaker said "Must have original passport and $10 cash".  Well that ended that.  We left our passports at the hotel.  It was time to start walking again.

Got back to the hotel and Kate called 'Uncle!"  She was done.  As tired and sweaty as I was, I decided to grab my passport and take a quick taxi down and back just to see the place.  It's a thing I've done in every city I can.  I got a taxi and was back at the museum buzzer.  I was let in and had to drop my passport down a slot.  After it was inspected it was slipped back out at me.  All very clandestine.  I paid my $10 and I was in!  There is a small museum attached to the synagogue.  The museum was inaugurated in 1967. The first Jewish institution in the country was founded in 1867.

As I approached, I heard violin music.  Thinking it was being piped in from somewhere, I was surprised to find a young man playing an extraordinary instrument with a woman looking on.  The music brought chills to my spine it was so beautiful - especially in that setting.  The woman, Ann, it turns out, is a professional violinist from Victoria, Canada - One forth of the Lafayette String Quartet.  However, she studied music at B.U. in Boston. Her friend,
Fernando, is also a professional violinist from Buenes Aires.  Fernando was trying out the two violins, a Stradivari (replica) and Guarneri, that Ann had just purchased - so she can hear the sound.  Ann and I chatted up a storm.  We talked about everything from instruments to Judaism.  It was time to part.  She took a selfie of the two of us that I really would love to get.  It was such a memorable moment.

As I was leaving the building, this little elderly man comes in as I was trying to go out.  An Abbott and Costello routine followed - that is too long to produce here but quite entertaining at the time.  Turns out this guy is the resident rabbi.  Now I was really thrilled.  We talked and I learned he has a friend somewhere around the Boston area. I asked,  "Can I get picture of you"  "You got $100 bucks!" "No, but I'll give you a smile"  "OK".  This really topped off my visit.  I was very glad I got myself back to the museum, as tired as I was..

But it wasn't over yet.  When I grabbed a cab to go back, I got a very disagreeable sort.  Upset I couldn't say the address in Spanish and he had to change glasses to read it on my phone.  It was a short drive but he didn't make it very pleasant.  Towards the end, he established that I was from the US.  When we got to the hotel, I gave him a $50 US for maybe a $1.50 cab ride and told him to keep it since I didn't have any pesos.  He now became my new BFF.  We sat in the cab and talked for 10 more minutes.  He brought up Trump and I told him he can expect to see me back here next year if this guys wins.  He laughed and said he feels sorry for us all.  I guess the $5 made his dreary day and it was well worth it  to see him leave with a smile on his face.

Back at the suite, a bit of down time and talk of dinner.  Kate was moving slowly but in the end we

decided to stick to a close neighborhood restaurant.  Our bike guide gave us a few recommendations and one was right around the corner.  This place was a real find.  From the street it looks like a liquor and flower shop.  But there is a nondescript door that goes down to the cellar.  Way cool!!  We managed to snag a table without a reservation.  As luck would have it, our waiter, Dillion, is a young man from LA and just moved to Buenos Aires about 2 months ago.  Kate got very excited.  Apparently her step-daughter has talked about moving here as well.  Dillion was happy to share his contact information if she ever wants to get in touch.  He was very happy to help.  And, yes, he knows OMG Shoes!  That was another conversation.

Although our day didn't turn out as planned - really when does it ever?  And, although we might have missed out on some attractions that were closed, we had some great experiences today.  Well worth the pain our bodies are both experiencing from schlepping around for miles in 90 degree weather.  Not to worry, we should have a couple of days of nothingness on the ship to regenerate -- not to mention a good massage.  Oh, by the way, we did decide to skip those tango lessons tonight!

Early morning tomorrow.  Leaving for the domestic airport at around 5:30am.  Sweet dreams. Before I go, I want to say that the wifi on board the ship may not be all that reliable.  So not sure what will happen after tomorrow's post.  Be assured, I was post when I can.

Next time.....The Silver Cloud

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City Bike Tour

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Last night we went to a local restaurant known for its grill.  The walk was felt good after traveling for I'm not sure how many hours at this point.  The restaurant was very charming with lots of character as well as characters.  We both ordered the tenderloin with grilled veggies and would've have done better if we had split a meal.  The portions were huge. What we took back could feed the homeless - of which there is, unfortunately, quite a lot from what we saw on the small walk we took just to go to dinner.  The wine was marvelous and we got a lovely complimentary glass of champagne to top off our meal.


How was the beef you might be asking yourself. Well it was quite good.  Do I have to eat beef again?  I'm thinking not.  But for this trip, I'm keeping my options open. Caught the English Tower aglow on the walk back.  Just beautiful.

Got in around 9:30 or so and off to slumberland.

Woke up a bit groggy this morning.  Kate was half way through her morning ritual. We made it downstairs for breakfast by about 8:30 or so with plenty of time to have a bite and walk  down to meet the bike tour.

Short walk to the park.  Dead quite this morning due to the fact that it is Sunday.  Oops will there even be a tour -- I never did call.  Arrived a bit early walked around, took photos, and eventually found our bike tour leaders.  We had a small group consisting of 2 Aussies, who just did an Antarctica cruise sans wives, and a lovely woman who hails from Lebanon but now lives and travels all over.

The four hour tour took us from San Martin Park.  General San Martin is one of Buenos Aires national heroes.  Down to the Falklands Islands War Memorial, where we learned about Argentina losing the territory to the Brits.  This is still a sensitive topic for most Argentinians.  We stayed to watch the changing of the guard and it was off to the harbor, Puerto Madero.

The harbor is a lovely, picturesque area with lots of restaurants and shopping.  Built up by the Hilton to keep their clients in the style to which they are accustomed. Across the way, we took a short ride through the National Reserve. Lots of people out and about here for enjoying their Sunday.  The day may have started out quiet but as we made our way through the city, the streets grew with more and more people.  The soccer game had let out plus it was some sort of holiday. It did make the cycling a bit more challenging.

Out of the park and through the La Boca district.  The artsy part of the city.  Lots of graffiti and ironically enough, our guide, Marianna, stopped in front of the community theater.  Biked down to Caminito, where we had the chance to walk around -- lots of street vendors, artists, people wanting to tango for money.  Speaking of tango -- the dance originated in Buenos Aires by the pimps.  Who originally just danced with each other.  When their prostitutes entered the pictured, the dance developed into the romantic style it is today. The city definitely has tango fever.  I hope we get a chance to try.

Reconvened at 12:00 and made our way to San Telmo Tiene Memorial.  This is part of Buenos Aires dark history. Remnants of an old police station  sits under the modern highway.  This is where 30,000 died and disappeared during the Dirty War of 1976-1983.  In 1977 fourteen woman formed the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo to protest the disappearance of their loved ones.  The white scarf  can be seen all along the Plaza de Mayo which was our next stop. Casa Rosada sits across from the Plaza and is home to Eva Peron's famous balcony.  Eva Peron's image is virtually everywhere in this city. She is buried in Recoleta Cemetery.  This concluded our bike tour.

Brought the bikes back to the shop and walked back to the hotel.  A short rest and we were off again to explore Recoleta Cemetery.  Stopped for a small lunch of empanadas along the way.  This cemetery is absolutely amazing.  There really are no words or pictures that can describe it.  We found Eva Peron's mausoleum.  Actually passed by it once or twice.  We were looking for something grand but it was actually quite modest.  She truly was one of the people.

Eventually made our way back to the hotel.  Just time for a quick showers and to hug my bag that had arrived from United Airlines.  YAY!!!!  Soon we were off again.  Going to dinner down at Puerto Madero.  Down by the harbor where we had been in the afternoon with the bikes.  Walked along side the water and took in the sights.  Found a wonderful restaurant.  After last night's steak adventure we both chose the fish option.  I had the Patagonian trout and Kate the salmon.  Both were delicious.  Left the restaurant sated and happy.  Somehow we managed to miss a rain shower while we were inside.  Hailed a cab and are back in our suite planning tomorrow's adventure.  All in all a very good day.

Next time... Palmero Bike Tour?

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